Change of Plan #3

Okay, I haven't even started my trip and this is the third time I've modified any version of my itinerary.

First plan - Beijing to St. Petersburg and back
Second plan - start in Ulaan Bataar, St. Petersburg and back to Beijing

Current plan* (* denotes subject to change)


Start in Ulaan Bataar next Sunday, work my way on the Trans-Siberian to St. Petersburg.... yes, I know, nothing has changed there. But now, I had a brilliant idea - apply for a Kazakh visa in London to transit via Kazakhstan from Russia to China and join up to the Silk Road.

So - my passport is off with the Kazakhs right now. Which, for your info, are a very attractive culture.

Trans-Siberian adventure meet the Silk Road.

Off to a good start

I made it. Yay. And, it's 27 degrees and a beautiful day in London.

Getting here was a bit of fun as well. I went through the normal ridiculousness of commercial travel and got settled into my seat to find an empty seat beside me. I thought that was a good omen. Until the guy behind me started chatting it up, leaning over the seats to chat, reaching over the aisle to introduce himself to the Romanian women who spoke no English, leaning over the back of his chair to talk with the people behind him...generally just being obnoxious.

Then, he got plastered.

Not just plastered...embarrasingly, stupidly, stumbling s*#t-faced drunk. Where he badgered everyone around him, randomly would shake my seat and reach over to wake me up, pushed the steward, refused to sit down...you name it.

About 2.5 hours into the flight he got read the absolute riot act of airline travel - threatening him with federal prison if he even moves from his seat. That seemed to calm him down long enough for the drugs he took to kick in and knock him out.

In the meantime, the steward was doing an excellent job to diffuse the situation, so excellent that he bumped me up to first class for remainder of the flight.

Full-flat bed and a quick snooze and now it's London-time.

Departure Day

It's D-Day - the day I take off for London. All my bags are packed and I'm pretty sure I haven't forgotten anything.


Lots of people have asked me if I'm excited and my answer is "Not yet". It still hasn't happened, part of it is probably because I'm going back to London where I'm so familiar - I think we are even staying in the same room. And I think the other part is my complete and utter lack of preparation - I don't even know what to be excited for.

What I do know is that I'll be leaving London next Saturday (May 29th) and flying directly to Ulaan Bataar (capital of Mongolia FYI) which means "Red Hero" in Mongolian. From there...I have absolutely NO idea. I will book a hotel for my first few nights in the capital to get organized, get over jet-lag and get my bearings. I would like to do a 3-4 day trek in rural Mongolia either through the Gobi or in the steppes. But, again, no idea.

And a bit more of what I know - June 15th - July 14th will be in Russia because that is when my visa is valid. And, then China from July 14th - August 15th when I head home.

So - later dudes - I'll catch up with you from England.

Stupid visas

I don't really understand Tourist Visas... Yes, I get that communist countries and paranoid leaders want to know who is visiting their countries. I get that.

What I don't get is the exorbitant prices. Tourism means disposable income to be spent in your country. The Mongolian visa is over $200 but they are the 124th poorest country in the world (out of 182 ranked), that is 2 spots above Sudan. So why would they discourage visitors and their US moolah by making visas so expensive?

Of course, I'm paying it, because the vast Gobi is in between my two major destinations - Russia and China. But I have been known to skip countries because of their visa costs - I have wanted to go to Mauritania on three separate occasions, but a $180 visa for 5 days is just too much, WAY too much to visit a country where every single building is made from sand.

But - it's done. Passport sent away. I don't know how I'm going to manage staying in the country for the next 2 months, but I'll try.

Trip Preparation

It's booked. My trans-Siberian adventure will begin May 15th. Beijing to St. Petersburg and back in 3 months. Russia, China, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan (except...if you talk to my mom - I'm not going to any of the 'stans).

The plan is simple: wander, explore, simplify and experience.

I will start in Beijing and work my way through the Trans Mongolian segment through southern Russia to St. Petersburg for the White Nights Festival. Then back down through the 'stans through Western China (to see the pandas!). That is as close as I get to itineraries.


Finally - freedom in a backpack.

71 days but whose counting.