Tale of the Tape

By the numbers, 6 weeks in the Mongolian countryside:

- one boob grab
- two thefts
- three tumbles off the horse
- four hours a day on horseback
- five kilometers an hour average
- six showers.... in 6 weeks.

And They're Off

There are still some negotiations and prices to settle but if we can bargain hard, we will be off into the wilderness tomorrow.

We have selected 3 horses and they all seem very pleasant and somewhat healthy, it is a long hard winter on the horses and the weather is finally turning to allow grasses to grow so they are still a bit skinny and weak. That didn’t stop our horseman from showing us the biggest nag of the bunch – a white old stallion that has masses growing all over its body and has definitely seen better days. Then, when they said we could try lassoing one on our own, they were a bit impressed to find that we picked out their best and most beautiful horse. (although Kelti didn’t succeed on the whole lasso thing). It wasn’t until about an hour later that they told us that, in fact, that particular horse is not for sale. But the white one is still up for grabs.

In short, we have found 4 horses that will suit, we still have to negotiate which of the three we will pick but some of the choice will take into consideration that our pimped out Canadian saddles are about 10 sizes too big for the ponies they pass off as horses here. But, we hacked the shit out of our saddles with new holes in the cinch and all sorts of cutting and hole punching and they fit…. Sort of.

It will calm all of your fearful loved ones that we will also try to negotiate in a guide for the first 5 days to, literally, show us the ropes. It will be nice to have someone to show us how to tend to the horses while we struggle to make camp. We practiced with our stove today, it only took 5 tries to get it going. We’re hoping when we actually set up camp that it will bring that down to 2 tries. If not, we can always eat ramen noodles uncooked.

We will likely be in contact in a couple of weeks or so when we hit Moron (pronounced Muroon but they didn’t think to write it like that). We will desperately need a shower by then and we might even find internet to check in.

Until then, the horse girls of the Mongolian steppes are going into the wild. Peace out.

The Fear Factor

I was just thinking of going into my account and writing a blog about how things are coming together - we had a plan - White Lake to Khosvgol for 5 weeks.

Then the proverbial shit hit the fan.

We found out we needed a border permit to visit the Northern reaches of our itinerary - which is basically impossible to get because of logistics and time it takes to get this free permit.

I opened up an email from a tour agent that I had contacted and he basically said "Don't do it, it's irresponsible, you will get robbed, you will lose your horses, you will get lost"

And now Kelti and I are kinda freaking out.

Don't worry - we're still going, we just need to rework our route, think about renting horses and maybe even taking a guide. I don't know but we'll be leaving Friday at the latest to start. By then, we'll have gotten our confidence back and will be set to go.

The Last...

Before I embark on a big trip I spend the day before recognizing the last of things that I appreciate. The countries I go to aren't famous for their luxuries, so I learn to love the last time:

- I will actually use soft toilet paper
- I will use a nice, big and fluffy towel
- I can stand naked outside of the shower
- I will drink out of the tap
- I can spread eagle on a bed with clean and soft sheets and actual pillows

And the last time, for three months at least, that I can spend alone with my thoughts and be able to know that home is very much what I have made here in Edmonton.

Homeward Bound

We are headed home on Saturday and after many, many hours on the bus; many, many bottles of wine consumed and hopefully only a few, miniscule pounds gained; it's time to come home.

I never plan anything for the last few days of travel because after having been gone so long you start to look ahead to all the stuff you have to do when I get home. Everything from remembering where my car is parked to scheduling my leg wax, you just start looking ahead.

Luckily, Santiago has little to detain me, it's got a nice vibe with some friendly people but nothing to really see or do. So, we'll wander and drink wine with breakfast, lunch and dinner and wander around some more.

Then home, sweet home. At least for 3 weeks....then it's off to Mongolia I go.

Wine, Chocolate and Mountains

I have found my gustatory dream: Argentina. Everyone warned me of the massive beef consumption and that I would starve while watching others devour steak after glorious steak.

Those that warned me of the beef forgot that I can live for weeks, if not years, on wine and chocolate alone. Argentina is famous for its Malbec - the gentle and fruity red wine that is delicious in sangria. And it's chocolate is world class.

Around Mendoza there are countless wineries that are conveniently located within biking distance of one another. A few wine tastings later your bike isn't quite as stable as it once was, but in 28 degree heat and a perfectly sunny day, being a bit tipsy seems like it's a perfect moment in time.



Next on the destination list is Bariloche in Patagonia - famous for chocolate and mountains. We've been bar hopping from chocolate store to chocolate store while admiring the mountains. Add in some Patagonian Malbec and I have found my calling in life - to be a super fat and drunk hiker.

Boca! Boca!! Boca!!!

If there is one thing, just one thing that unites all Argentines - it is a passionate love for God.

No, not that God.

Diego Maradona.

The greatest footballer to ever live, scoring the most beautiful goal in the most beautiful game was an Argentine and is revered across Argentina. And nowhere more than in the slums of Buenos Aires in a region called Boca.

It is the Boca football club where Maradona wowed the crowds in La Bombonera, the most famous football stadium in the world. Best player in the world, best stadium in the world - of course I went.

Boca Juniors Football Club played Estudiantes on April 3rd, 2010. And Torah Kachur was in attendance. It is a pretty normal league game but you'd never know. Passionate fans singing, dancing, heckling and making as much noise as one human can possibly do for 3 entire hours. A football match only lasts 90 minutes, but the crowds assemble long before and stay long after to show their loyalty and their love for the beautiful game.



It was a regular league game, but it was far from a normal game. Two quick goals early in the match made the score 1-1, where it stayed for the better part of the match with the visiting squad playing a slow and boring style content to sit back and take the tie in the rival stadium.

Then, late in the 2nd half, Boca decided to take charge and start taking risks - a few quick chances didn't materialize but at least the crowd jumped a bit more than their usual 100 times per minute. Then, in spectacular fashion - Boca Juniors scored with 15 seconds remaining in the match.

Understandably, the crowd went beserk.... an old man fell on top of me, beer was sprayed everywhere, a woman started crying. For a regular season match.

Oilers fans are pathetic.